Aggiorno con le impressioni dopo la tappa di Franciacorta del challenge LLCC
Premetto che il rodaggio è stato eseguito come da istruzioni ferodo, tra autostrada e pista.
Ho girato a FC prima e dopo l'installazione delle willwood, anche se con set up diversi
A) Pinze originali - EBC Yellow - AD08R 195/50/15 - Finale 4.1
B) Pinze wilwood - Ferodo DS UNO - Dmack 225/45/15 - Finale 4.78
Quindi il confronto non ha molto senso, ma riporto comunque i "dati"
Sulle frenate più forti (prima e penultima curva), nonostante una velocità maggiore di ca 10 km/h, con le wilwood frenavo ca 10-15 mt dopo.
Non saprei quantificare quanto sia merito della gomma, quanto delle pinze e quanto delle pastiglie.
Va però esercitata una pressione maggiore sul freno: a mio parere, è un plus, in quanto si riesce a modulare meglio la frenata (per quanto io, che non sono nè pilota, nè collaudatore, ne possa capire). Può anche essere una delle cause per cui sembra che l'auto freni meno con le wilwood.
Il rendimento dell'impianto frenante è rimasto costante per tutta la giornata e durante tutta la durata dei singoli turni.
Insomma frena o non frena?
Secondo me frena un pochino di più rispetto all'impianto originale (Medium brakes)
Come già detto nel primo post, non ci si deve aspettare una differenza sconvolgente: per quello ci sono altri kit (con altri costi)
Dal mio punto di vista i maggiori pregi sono
* Minore costo delle pastiglie (Per le pastiglie Ferodo)
* Riduzione peso (ca 700 gr a ruota)
* Facilità di spurgo e cambio pastiglie
* Modulabilità della frenata
Riporto quanto scritto su FM a riguardo di questo kit
https://www.flyinmiata.com/flyin-miata-l...-only.html
We know that Miata owners are always looking for ways to shed weight. Autocrossers in particular. After seeing a custom minimum weight brake system on Bill Schenker's National level CSP car, we figured we could come up with something for everyone. So we knocked 4 lbs of unsprung weight off each front wheel by replacing the stock cast iron calipers with aluminum Wilwood parts. Along with the weight loss, we also ended up with a four-piston caliper for nice even pad pressure. And yes, we said 4 pounds of weight per corner.
The aluminum radial mount Powerlite caliper is a fairly new design from Wilwood that's an excellent match to a quick Miata. It's compact enough to fit around the small Miata discs, but is nice and stiff and gives even pressure across the 5 square inch pad. Since the pistons are properly sized, the stock pedal feel will not change. Porterfield, Hawk, Carbotech, Performance Friction and Wilwood all offer a full range of pads to choose from. We ship them with a set of Wilwood E compound pads, which are a good street/autocross choice. Brake balance will not be dramatically affected unless you install a different pad type than your previous setup. If you'd like to order the kit without pads so you can source something different, the price is $469. Please note that you will have to use a pad for a Wilwood Powerlite caliper, standard Miata pads will not fit.
These are not intended to be super heavy duty track brakes. For that, we recommend our four wheel big brake kit with the heavier Dynalite calipers and two-piece rotors. These are a good street, autocross and light track option. They have better heat management than stock brakes due to the aluminum caliper, but rampaging V8s on slicks will want more.
Available to fit any 1990-05 stock Miata brake rotor. However, there's a catch. On the smaller rotors, the caliper sits very close to the wheel mounting surface. You will have to check clearance on your wheels to confirm the caliper will clear. The smallest 9" rotor may require a spacer - a 10mm spacer will solve any clearance problem, and 5mm will likely work for most wheels. The 10" rotor setup fits many more wheels, including almost all factory wheels after 1994 - yes, including 14" ones - as well as popular aftermarket ones such as 15x8 or larger 6ULs. 11" should work with almost anything. The factory Sport rotors are actually 10.6" and the 1990-93 rotors are 9.3", we rounded off to make it easier to identify the three sizes.
1990-93 template (9" rotor)
1994-02 template (10" rotor)
2001-05 Sport template (11" rotor)
We have just discovered some 11" rotors are too thick. The FM branded rotors we sell fit fine, but we have been told Centric brand is too thick to fit this particular caliper. Please measure your rotors before ordering, they cannot exceed 22.1 mm. Centric claims their rotors are thinner than this, but experience tells us otherwise.
Includes calipers, pads, brackets, stainless steel lines and two bottles of Redline brake fluid. Rotors are not included. You will keep your existing rotor. If you're changing rotor size, you'll need to pick up a set of the appropriate rotors as well. This is a two-wheel kit, nothing is changed at the rear. We do offer a four wheel version that includes new pads and lines for the rear as well as a proportioning valve.
Premetto che il rodaggio è stato eseguito come da istruzioni ferodo, tra autostrada e pista.
Ho girato a FC prima e dopo l'installazione delle willwood, anche se con set up diversi
A) Pinze originali - EBC Yellow - AD08R 195/50/15 - Finale 4.1
B) Pinze wilwood - Ferodo DS UNO - Dmack 225/45/15 - Finale 4.78
Quindi il confronto non ha molto senso, ma riporto comunque i "dati"
Sulle frenate più forti (prima e penultima curva), nonostante una velocità maggiore di ca 10 km/h, con le wilwood frenavo ca 10-15 mt dopo.
Non saprei quantificare quanto sia merito della gomma, quanto delle pinze e quanto delle pastiglie.
Va però esercitata una pressione maggiore sul freno: a mio parere, è un plus, in quanto si riesce a modulare meglio la frenata (per quanto io, che non sono nè pilota, nè collaudatore, ne possa capire). Può anche essere una delle cause per cui sembra che l'auto freni meno con le wilwood.
Il rendimento dell'impianto frenante è rimasto costante per tutta la giornata e durante tutta la durata dei singoli turni.
Insomma frena o non frena?
Secondo me frena un pochino di più rispetto all'impianto originale (Medium brakes)
Come già detto nel primo post, non ci si deve aspettare una differenza sconvolgente: per quello ci sono altri kit (con altri costi)
Dal mio punto di vista i maggiori pregi sono
* Minore costo delle pastiglie (Per le pastiglie Ferodo)
* Riduzione peso (ca 700 gr a ruota)
* Facilità di spurgo e cambio pastiglie
* Modulabilità della frenata
| Tipo di pastiglia | Costo pinza wilwood | Costo pinza OEM |
| EBC Greenstuff | 74€ | 77€ |
| EBC Yellowstuff | 104€ | 101€ |
| Ferodo DS2500 | 84 | 160€ |
| Ferodo DS UNO | 99€ | Non disponibili |
Riporto quanto scritto su FM a riguardo di questo kit
https://www.flyinmiata.com/flyin-miata-l...-only.html
We know that Miata owners are always looking for ways to shed weight. Autocrossers in particular. After seeing a custom minimum weight brake system on Bill Schenker's National level CSP car, we figured we could come up with something for everyone. So we knocked 4 lbs of unsprung weight off each front wheel by replacing the stock cast iron calipers with aluminum Wilwood parts. Along with the weight loss, we also ended up with a four-piston caliper for nice even pad pressure. And yes, we said 4 pounds of weight per corner.
The aluminum radial mount Powerlite caliper is a fairly new design from Wilwood that's an excellent match to a quick Miata. It's compact enough to fit around the small Miata discs, but is nice and stiff and gives even pressure across the 5 square inch pad. Since the pistons are properly sized, the stock pedal feel will not change. Porterfield, Hawk, Carbotech, Performance Friction and Wilwood all offer a full range of pads to choose from. We ship them with a set of Wilwood E compound pads, which are a good street/autocross choice. Brake balance will not be dramatically affected unless you install a different pad type than your previous setup. If you'd like to order the kit without pads so you can source something different, the price is $469. Please note that you will have to use a pad for a Wilwood Powerlite caliper, standard Miata pads will not fit.
These are not intended to be super heavy duty track brakes. For that, we recommend our four wheel big brake kit with the heavier Dynalite calipers and two-piece rotors. These are a good street, autocross and light track option. They have better heat management than stock brakes due to the aluminum caliper, but rampaging V8s on slicks will want more.
Available to fit any 1990-05 stock Miata brake rotor. However, there's a catch. On the smaller rotors, the caliper sits very close to the wheel mounting surface. You will have to check clearance on your wheels to confirm the caliper will clear. The smallest 9" rotor may require a spacer - a 10mm spacer will solve any clearance problem, and 5mm will likely work for most wheels. The 10" rotor setup fits many more wheels, including almost all factory wheels after 1994 - yes, including 14" ones - as well as popular aftermarket ones such as 15x8 or larger 6ULs. 11" should work with almost anything. The factory Sport rotors are actually 10.6" and the 1990-93 rotors are 9.3", we rounded off to make it easier to identify the three sizes.
1990-93 template (9" rotor)
1994-02 template (10" rotor)
2001-05 Sport template (11" rotor)
We have just discovered some 11" rotors are too thick. The FM branded rotors we sell fit fine, but we have been told Centric brand is too thick to fit this particular caliper. Please measure your rotors before ordering, they cannot exceed 22.1 mm. Centric claims their rotors are thinner than this, but experience tells us otherwise.
Includes calipers, pads, brackets, stainless steel lines and two bottles of Redline brake fluid. Rotors are not included. You will keep your existing rotor. If you're changing rotor size, you'll need to pick up a set of the appropriate rotors as well. This is a two-wheel kit, nothing is changed at the rear. We do offer a four wheel version that includes new pads and lines for the rear as well as a proportioning valve.
